[dropcap]M[/dropcap]osmieri Saperavi Qvevri 2017 is a single-varietal Saperavi red wine produced by Mosmieri winery under the direction of winemaker David Maisuradze, one of Georgia’s most highly regarded winemakers. Mosmieri works with the traditional Georgian method of fermentation and ageing in qvevri — clay jars buried in the ground — combining this ancient technique with state-of-the-art modern equipment. Tasted in 2026, with nine years of evolution in bottle, making this a truly interesting maturity tasting for a wine of this character. Alcohol: 14% vol.
Tasting
Visual phase
Dark, intense garnet in colour, full-bodied, with a still very dense core that after nine years from the vintage has begun to show faint ruby and brick hints at the rim. Saperavi, known as one of the most pigmented grape varieties in the world — its name in ancient Georgian literally means “dye” — continues to deliver a glass of great visual presence. Bright, clean, with a dense and slow-moving leg.
Nose
A well-balanced and harmonious bouquet, with notes of ripe cherries and plums in the foreground. Nine years in bottle have added a tertiary layer of great interest: notes of soft leather, tobacco, damp earth and woodland mushrooms appear, characteristic of the bottle evolution of great Saperavi wines. The qvevri method leaves its unmistakable mark: a clay-like, mineral and slightly tannic note derived from the prolonged skin and stem contact during fermentation. Behind these, dried and candied fruit — prunes, ripe blackberries — wild spices, a touch of graphite and that earthy, animal undertone so characteristic of the Caucasus. Medium-high intensity, with a slow and harmonious evolution in the glass that invites you to pause and take notice.
Palate
Full-bodied with expressive tannins typical of qvevri-made wines, which after nine years from the vintage appear notably more integrated and rounded than in their youth, though still very much present and structural. The acidity, always vibrant and lively in Saperavi, continues to fulfil its role as a backbone with great effectiveness, lending freshness and tension to the whole. The passage across the palate is broad, deep and persistent: ripe dark fruit interwoven with notes of earth, spices, old leather and a very characteristic mineral base from the soils of Kakheti. The finish is long, dry and austere, with a mineral and slightly earthy aftertaste that lingers for several minutes. Extraordinary persistence for a wine at this price point.
A reflection on the drinking window
Mosmieri’s wines are highly expressive of terroir, extremely elegant and clean, and express themselves admirably over many years. At nine years from the vintage this Saperavi Qvevri 2017 is at an optimal drinking moment: it has moved beyond its closed, youthful phase of hardness, yet retains all the structure and energy to continue evolving. Winemaker David Maisuradze estimates the cellaring potential of this wine at up to 15 years under the right conditions. There are therefore some six years of ideal drinking window remaining, though it already has everything to offer right now. It is recommended to decant it for at least one hour before serving, at 16–18 °C.
It pairs exceptionally well with roasted red meats, braised lamb, big game, cured charcuterie and strong-flavoured cheeses. It also works beautifully with traditional Georgian cuisine: khinkali, chanakhi and spiced aubergine dishes.
Conclusion
A Saperavi Qvevri that has reached its maturity with full dignity, clearly demonstrating why Georgia is considered the cradle of wine. Nine years have transformed the tannic power of its youth into an elegant and profound tertiary complexity, without losing an ounce of identity or character. This is not an easy wine for uninitiated palates, but those who venture into it will find a unique, authentic experience that is difficult to forget.
It deserves a rating of Excellent, with a score of 92 points.
Sobrelías Redacción
Sobrelías Redacción